Swimming around La Palma

There is one thing about an island you can guarantee – there's always plenty of water around! And whilst La Palma is often known as a walking destination, it would be a real shame if it was overlooked as a beach destination as well.

Los Cancajos beach

If you are in the area of Los Cancajos near the capital, the beaches there would certainly get our vote. Here you will find three lovely inter-linking beaches with easy access in and out of the sea, the water is clear and the fish are usually in abundance which also makes it perfect for snorkeling.

Another nearby beach is just 1km south of the capital, the Playa Bajamar. And further up the coast is the Playa Espindola near San Andres - all good, sandy beaches with easy entry.
And of course let's not forget the main beach at Santa Cruz itself, right across the road from the historic mansions. It's not open to the public yet, but hopefully the grand opening is not too far away!

Santa Cruz beach

Over on the west side, a popular beach is at Tazacorte at what you might call Tazacorte village where there is also a great range of apartments and restaurants. It almost never gets crowed although in August it's pretty busy. Tazacorte is often cited as having the most sunshine hours year round in the whole of Europe!

Tazacorte beach, 31 December

Tazacorte beach - August

Not too far down the coast is Puerto Naos, also a popular place for its beach and apartments. Plus it's got a great new promenade now, very swish!

Beach at Puerto Naos

However, another favourite place to swim is La Fajana de Barlovento which is in the North West. It is not too far off the main road, parking is easy and the water is nearby. There is no actual beach but plenty of terraced areas to get laid out in the sun and the facilities are among the best on the island with free, scrupulously clean toilets and showers too.

La Fajana de Barlovento

 In summer, the sea is fantastic for swimming and great for snorkeling. But the sea pools are also surprisingly good. The three pools have something for everyone from small children to keen snorkelers as the main pool is quite large and just over 2 meters deep. The water is again crystal clear and they are all absolutely teeming with fish. And - it is quite an experience to swim in the calm water of the pool.

Sandy cove below Puntagorda

But there are many hidden coves around the island too and if you're a bit of an explorer, then get your map out and - discover! Take a look around Los Canarios in the far south, Puntagorda in the north west, Puntallana in the east, they all have little coves where you can lay on the beach and enjoy a swim in the clear waters of La Palma. Enjoy!

What is there to do on La Palma?

I remember one evening twelve years ago when I was at a friends house in Tenerife. I had found myself in conversation with another English lady about the neighbouring island of La Palma and the fact that it is often to referred to as La Isla Bonita. We agreed that it is indeed a beautiful island.

Santa Cruz de La Palma

‘Yes,’ she continued with perhaps more enthusiasm than was strictly necessary, ‘but you can’t live there!’

Most of my answer was apparently drowned out by the rising background noise but anyway, why couldn’t you live there I insisted on knowing.

‘There’s no hospital for a start!’ she replied in a shocked voice, although conceding that an airport was a possibility for the future.

Eventually, I managed to get her to understand that there is indeed a hospital and in fact there is an International airport already in existence and has been for many years. But I had a harder time convincing her that La Palma, yes sleepy La Palma, is my home.

So what else is there to know about La Palma?

How to get there

The first airport on La Palma opened in 1955 and in 1970 it moved to its current location in Mazo, by the east coast. In 2011 a new and larger airport was built and in that year it handled over 1 million passengers. From the UK there are direct flights from both Manchester and Gatwick with Thomsons. The airport code is SPC. There are also direct flights from Germany, Spain and the Netherlands plus inter-islands flights from Tenerife and Gran Canaria.

For ferries, the port of Santa Cruz de La Palma serves Fred Olsen, Acciona Trasmediterranea and Naviera Armas. There is a new marina at Santa Cruz and a second port/marina at Tazacorte in the west of La Palma.

Flight from Tenerife to La Palma

Accommodation

There are many casas rurales (the traditional Canarian cottages) dotted about the landscape which are available for rent along with apartments, hotels, pensions (room only) and even a few bed and breakfasts.

Shops

La Palma has many large supermarkets (Hiper Dino, San Martin, Trebol) and smaller Spar supermarkets all of which are open all day. There is also a covered fruit and vegetable market in both Santa Cruz and Los Llanos and weekend markets in Puntagorda, Mazo, Puntallana and Barlovento.

Puntagorda Market with Artesenia products

Beaches

Whilst La Palma does not have a great abundance of broad swathes of golden sands, it

does however have a good number of black sand beaches, hidden coves and sea water pools.

The main beaches are at the resorts of  Los Cancajos in the east and Puerto Naos and Tazacorte in the west although there are other sandy beaches dotted around the island. There is also a new beach under construction on the waterfront of the capital of Santa Cruz in addition to excellent beach at Bajamar, just off the road out of the capital to the south.

Beach at Tazacorte, La Palma

Transport

Cars can be hired either on-line in advance or whilst on the island at the airport or in the towns.  There is also an excellent bus service (even in the rural north of the island) and no single bus journey costs more than 2€.

Walking routes

La Palma has over 1000km of marked trails through ever-changing and spectacular scenery. The main long distance trails are the GR130 Camino Real (8 days) which goes around the perimeter of the island linking hidden hamlets, gorges, towns and beaches and the GR131 El Bastón (3/4 days) which includes the Volcano Route and the Roque de Muchachos at 2426m. Other walks pass through the Laurisilva forest of Los Tilos, pine forests, lava fields and country meadows.

What is there to do?

The fun on La Palma is generally provided by the beauty and nature of the island as there are no theme parks, bowling alleys, skating rinks or disco-pubs pock-marking the boulevards.  In no particular order, these are some of the great things to do and see:

Roque de Muchachos - the highest point of the island at 2426m

La Caldera - a near complete circular mountain ridge measuring 10km in diameter and 2000m deep

La Cumbrecita - a stunning viewpoint and walk along the ridge of the Caldera

Volcanoes – the last eruption was Teneguia in 1971

Los Tilos – ancient forest of Laurisilva, a species from the age of Dinosaurs

La Zarza forest and archaeological park with pre-Hispanic rock engravings

Salt Pans of Fuencaliente (area of Scientific Interest and whose waters attract migratory birds)

The rural north with its hidden hamlets, caves, fresh water springs and ancient dwellings with wooden roofs

Weekend markets with fresh organic produce and local handicrafts

Historic capital of Santa Cruz with its flower-festooned balconies, cobbled streets and splendid mansions.

Guided tour of the observatory at Roque de Muchachos to see how the stars are observed on La Palma

Various museums including the Naval museum, Silk museum, Banana museum and Archaeological museum

Dolphin and whale watching from the boats out of Tazacorte harbour

SCUBA diving, snorkelling, swimming and sunbathing

Paragliding - La Palma is often cited as the best place in Spain for Paragliding

In short, if you are bored while on holiday in La Palma, you are probably on the wrong Canarian Island!

We hope you enjoy La Palma too!  For any other information, you are welcome to look at our website www.holiday-lapalma.comhttp://www.holiday-lapalma.com/aboutlapalma.html

Smuggler's Cove

A couple of weeks ago, whilst overlooking the spectacular Barranco Fagundo from the mirador/restaurant at El Tablado, we noticed that the beach at the mouth of the ravine was sand-covered and looking rather delicious.  Naturally, our curiosity was aroused as this is one beach we have never been to.  Yes, Smugglers' Cove as once frequented by pirates.  So, yesterday, after a one hour walk down the side of the ravine, we arrived at the rocky bottom and set off to explore down towards the sea.

We weren't quite sure how long it would take to arrive at the sea because the bed of the ravine was full of little curves and so it was not possible to see to the end until we were almost there.  However, after ten minutes of picking our way over the rocks, we reached sea level (almost) and were overlooking the little cove.  It was very easy to imagine how pirates could quickly hide themselves in here.

But there was just one problem - a ten metre vertical drop off between us and the beach.  Undaunted, some of the more adventurous in our group of two people were quickly finding a way to get further down.  By edging along a narrow, rough, sloping precipice in a crouching position whilst clinging on tightly with fingertips ....

... a rather random selection of long pieces of driftwood could be reached.  This, I was informed, was a ladder, by means of which we could reach the sea.  

Suffice to say, I was not impressed.  And further still, not one bit convinced that it was important we both had to meet the beach personally.  After all, we've got a perfectly good beach just a twelve minute drive from our house!  So that was decided - I had no intention of attempting this obstacle - I would safely stay at my lofty viewpoint and watch David swim. 

After a good deal of encouragement, persuasion and cajolement, I was down. But why, why is it, when the last thing you want to do is to fall of the edge, you can't help but look down!!  It was in fact easy enough, but if you dislike heights (like me) or have a tendency to trip over almost nothing (like me) or have an over-heightened sense of self-preservation (like me), I don't recommend it one bit.  And there are plenty of other beaches on La Palma of the variety that you just walk onto.

But at least it was a lovely beach - although if I ever go there again (which I doubt), I shall definitely take a tip from the pirates and keep a handy hook up my sleeve.