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Saturday 4 November 2017

Día de Todos los Santos - All Saints Day

I will be the first to admit that La Palma likes nothing better than a jolly good fiesta. In fact almost anything, noteworthy or not, can have its own special day. For example, La Fiesta del Entierro de la Sardina, the Fiesta of the Funeral of the Sardine. However, fiestas are not to be confused with  religious days, which are often Public Holidays. 
And one of these very special religious days is the  Día de Todos los Santos - All Saints Day - which is held on 1st November. Here on La Palma it is normally called El Dia de los Difuntos, the Day of the Deceased. 
This is a day which is dedicated to remembering, not just the saints, but also those who have gone on before such as relatives, friends and neighbours. There is a saying, 'Nadie más muerto que el olvidado' - Nobody is more dead than the forgotten. And in Spain, they say it with flowers thus making sure nobody is forgotten.

Prior to the day, cemeteries are given a spruce up and flower shops begin the task of trying to make sure there are enough flowers. In the larger towns and cities, people are literally queuing up to buy flowers. But even in smaller places, if you leave buying your flowers until the last moment, they will have run out. 

A rather improbable venue for a celebration, the cemetery, becomes a hive of activity on 01 November, with swathes of people turning up every few minutes with arms full of flowers. At our village in the north of La Palma, groups of cheerful local ladies trim, tweak and tidy the blooms into beautiful arrangements, sprays and posies with which they decorate not just tiered vaults but also the ancient graves. In a jamboree of festive colour, a celebration of life gradually blossoms.
And so, one of the lovely things about the Day of the Deceased is that the cemeteries are not just a place for sadness, but also for happiness and laughter when recalling the good times. There may be sobbing or singing but always there is an over-riding sense of support for each other. It is certainly a bitter-sweet experience of remembering and celebrating all rolled into one.
It really is a question of flower and glory, for ever and ever.
I think we can say Amen to that.

Monday 19 June 2017

San Andres and Marine Walk to Charco Azul and Puerto Espíndola - Part II

On our way now from the beautiful little village of San Andres to the Puerto de Espíndola, this the second part of our blog post - you can see the first part here: http://holiday-lapalma.blogspot.com.es/2017/03/san-andres-and-marine-walk-to-charco.html
Although the walk is very easy and quite short, there are many things to see along the way and of course even a bit to learn. For example, you'll be able to read from one of the information boards about how the settlement of San Andres was the most important trading centre in the north-east of La Palma, especially in the 16th and 17th century. It's hard to imagine what it was like that far back!
But the tiny port of 'La Cuevita' that is passed along way was doubtless key and you can still see the winch that was used in more recent times to get boats in and out of the water. Before the advent of the fantastic roads we have now, it was

Friday 19 May 2017

Dolphin Spotting from Tazacorte

Our latest adventure was the very much awaited for boat trip from the Puerto de Tazacorte.
This was the big one on my List of Things to do on La Palma and I can't tell you how long I've waited for this! Well, if pressed, probably 15 years but with a whole lot of other things clamouring for attention, it's only in the last few years that it is has doggedly moved up to pole position. But still held held back by the self-closing doors of time and opportunity.
Until as luck would have it (and with David's family over on holiday) we found ourselves staying at one of the

Saturday 22 April 2017

Fuencaliente Salt Pans, La Palma,

The Teneguia Salinas Marinas, Salt Pans, of Fuencaliente are well worth a visit if you are in the south of La Palma. Located beyond the small town of Los Canarios, the sight of the salt pans is certainly impressive. It's a place where the white salt is ordered by black lava in a layout almost akin to a chess board. But here, it's the sun and warm wind that do all the moving to turn sea water from the Atlantic Ocean into sought-after salt.
It was in 1967 that the idea was born to create the salt pans, following the concept of salt pans in Lanzarote. Maybe there would be a market for the salt, maybe not. However, only 4 years later in 1971, it seemed that the Teneguia volcano would wipe out the

Tuesday 21 March 2017

San Andres and marine walk to Charco Azul and Puerto Espindola Part I

For those on holiday staying at the more southerly resorts on La Palma, I can imagine that it might be difficult to tear oneself away to explore the more northerly points of the island. However, for a place that has Canarian charisma oozing out of every cobbled stone and cute cottage, the little village of San Andres in the north east of La Palma is a must.
When we were looking for a place to live on La Palma, we stumbled across San Andres and immediately thought, 'Ah, this is it!' Everything one imagines a Spanish village to be, from the beautiful plaza with church (La Iglesia de San Andrés Apóstol), three cafe/restaurants dotted around the plaza and an abundance of cobbled streets. All in the most beautiful setting overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
Actually, the church alone is very interesting as this was the site of one of the first churches to be built on the island by the Spanish Conquistadors in 1515. The present church was built in the 17th century. Unlike most churches the entrance is not at the nave end but it has two main doors at the side. Since our first visit there, we haven't been able to go inside the church as it's been locked up, but one of the most surprising things is the selection of doll parts adorning some of the walls. Apparently, this is to pray for people who are ill with the relevant part left in the church.
For walkers, the GR130 Camino Real walking route runs right through San Andres, so that's a bit of a treat in store, an oasis at the end of banana plantations. However, if not passing right through, you'll probably want to walk around the three main streets just so you don't miss anything, including a second little church. One thing you might miss though is the view from the upstairs at Bar Miami in the main street. That's my handy tip for the day :)
Moving right along, follow the GR130 signs towards Los Sauces and this will get you on the marine walk. It's a very enjoyable - and flat - walk which links San Andres to Charco Azul and Puerto Espindola.
Along the way, there is an absolutely lovely wooden bridge, quite new, but of a great design.

Also the old lime kiln which was very important from the days when lime paint was used to coat houses and protect from damp.  You can look right inside the kiln which is fascinating with its curved, brick interior.

Continuing along the marine walk, there's plenty to see, the sea for a start! But also various subtropical plants and a few very interesting houses. I'll let you be the judge on that!

Charco Azul here we come ... to be continued :)

Wednesday 1 February 2017

Restaurante El Bernegal, Santo Domingo

We were all sad when the Restaurant el Bernegal in Santo Domingo closed a couple of years ago. It was a hugely popular restaurant with a very varied menu which included some great options for vegetarian food. 

Located in a beautiful, old Canarian house with 3 separate dining rooms, it has plenty of charm and character. Add individual dining tables covered with white linen tablecloths, an abundance of sparkling wine glasses at every place setting, hanging plants and Moroccan-esk wall tiles in the charismatic central hall and the ambience is nothing short of suggesting a high class, expensive restaurant. 



Well, you'd almost be right apart from the fact that it's not expensive at all so you can imagine how happy we were to discover that it had reopened last year.
And better still, although with a new owner, the same great chef.
A birthday was the perfect excuse to try it out once more and it's a definite thumbs up from us. But since that seems to be the general consensus of opinion, don't be too surprised if it is packed full on a Sunday. Yes, waiting times might be long so it might be better to go during the week of possible.


Here are the opening times:
Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday - 12.00 to 17.00 hrs
Friday and Saturday - 12.00 to 17.00hrs then 19.00 to 22.00hrs
Closed Monday and Tuesday
To make a reservation, phone 0034 922 40 04 80