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Showing posts with label Caldera de Taburiente. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Caldera de Taburiente. Show all posts

Tuesday, 30 August 2016

Cumbrecita and El Paso Visitor Centre

The larger towns on La Palma have a Visitor Centre and this is where you can get maps, leaflets and guide books along with help and information from the staff. Just be aware that they generally close between about 13.00hrs and 16.00hrs. However, if you are looking for information on the Caldera de Taburiente, the Cumbrecita, Volcano Route and the topography, flora and fauna of the island, then the El Paso Visitor Centre is a good place to go and it's open all day.

Happily, it's really easy to find as it's located right next to the LP3 main road which runs between the east and west coasts, just at the 20km marker. This is also where the road goes up to La Cumbrecita. A word of caution - please do observe the speed limits in this area on the LP3!
Where are we? This is where you can find out about the National Park
The Cumbrecita is one of my many favourite jaunts on the island and it gives a great overview of the immense Caldera de Taburiente. Mr. Rother's Walking Guide also likes it quite a lot too so I'm in good company - he says that if you only do one walk on the La Palma, this should be it! And I have to say that I probably agree. You can read our blogpost about the Cumbrecita here.
La Cumbrecita walk
If you are thinking of driving up to the Cumbrecita, then you need to get a ticket from the El Paso Visitor Centre for the car as parking is limited ie, not many cars can get parked because there isn't much space. So it's a bit of a queuing system just like in the supermarket. Sometimes you can go up straight away and at peak times, there could be a long wait. My suggestions is that you ask at the reception when you arrive how long the wait is rather than looking at the exhibits in great detail and then discovering that there is a 40 minute wait before you can go up to to the Cumbrecita. If needs though, there is a bar/cafe directly opposite to while away the time.
My favourite exhibit at the Visitor Centre is the relief map/display of La Palma. I look at it and think, good grief - do we really live there! 'There' is at 500m above sea level, half-way across the north coast in what is the most mountainous region of La Palma. But more importantly it gives you a really fantastic overview of La Palma and just exactly why the roads are so twisty!
 Looking at the information panels, you can also discover how La Palma used to be divided up into the various municipalities. You might notice that there has been a bit of political shuffling round and Tazacorte has now become a municipality in its own right.
If you have time, you might like to wander over to the botanical garden or watch the 20 minute video on La Palma which is available in Spanish, English, German and French.  The Spanish video is on every hour on the hour.  The other languages are on every half-hour. In all cases, go to reception to ask for the video to be played, if not already on. Everything is free by the way.
Also free is the sight of the Old Man of the Mountain. This is not quite the best vantage point from which to view the apparent profile of an old man laying down. However ... to the left in the picture, he is clasping his hands together over his stomach. Looking along to the right, the profile dips down to his neck and then a vertical rise to his chin, lips and nose. The saying is that when the old man rises, then La Palma will disappear beneath the waves.

Opening times:
The Cumbrecita car park and walk is open from 08.30hr to 19.55hrs seven days a week, No toilets or other facilities available by the way.
The El Paso Visitors Centre is open from 09.00 to 18.00hrs seven days a week, toilets are available. Parking is right outside and free. If approaching from Santa Cruz in the east, slow down as you approach 20km and turn into the car park. If approaching from Tazacorte/El Paso/Los Llanos in the west, turn into your right where there is parking on your side of the road opposite the centre. Because it is situated next to the main road, please take care at all times.

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

The history of Tazacorte

If there is one thing that I love about La Palma - apart from the nature and the people - it's the history of the island. It's varied, it's vibrant and quite frankly, beyond fascinating.  
Pick an area, any area, from Puntagorda to Puntallana, Mazo to Las Manchas, Santa Cruz to San AndrĂ©s or any of the other municipalities on La Palma and you'll find a different history. 
One of the municipalities that I find of particular interest is Garafia in the north of La Palma although of course I am biased as that is where I live! (You can find the short version of our own guide to Garafia here.) But even I have to concede that the area which is one of the most historically important on La Palma is Tazacorte.
Now you might find this rather surprising as Tazacorte is better known for its beach, apartments, restaurants and the boat trips to see the dolphins and whales. And the hint is in there somewhere if you think about it. Yes, it has a harbour.
Despite there being many coves and beaches on La Palma, there are also three operational harbours - one at the capital of Santa Cruz in the east, Puerto de Tazacorte in the west and Puerto Espindola near Los Sauces in the north east. The coves in the remote and isolated areas of the island were the province of pirates. Our neighbouring village of El Tablado has a particularly hidden cove which is well worth exploring if you are nimble and adventurous!
But Tazacorte was to be the stuff of greater import as this is where the Spanish Conquistadors landed on 29 September 1492. Let battle commence. In fact, it took until the 3rd May the following year until the last stronghold on the island, the Caldera de Taburiente, was taken. Can you imagine how difficult it must have been to capture an area such as that? 
There were two failed attempts by the men under the command of one Fernandez de Lugo to capture Tanausu, the ruler of the Kindgdom of Acerco, the Caldera de Taburiente. There was only one thing for it - to lure him out with promises of a treaty. Tanausu was captured and although he was taken by ship to mainland Spain, he did not live to tell the tale as he starved himself, determined that he should not arrive alive.
So if you decide to book an apartment at Tazacorte and find yourself sunbathing on the beach or walking in the Caldera de Taburiente, you might just reflect on the incredible history for a moment. Things were not always so calm!
One of the great resources for reading about the history of La Palma is on the website of the ING (Isaac Newton Group of Telescopes). I hope that you'll find it fascinating too.