Embroidery of La Palma

Before I came to live on La Palma, I had no idea that the island was famous for its embroidery. Well OK, I didn't know that La Palma actually existed but that's another story ...

In fact, La Palma has a tradition of many handicrafts including not just embroidery but also silk production (going back to the 16th century), basket making and cigars (which Winston Churchill smoked and highly rated).  And they are all still hand made today. Out of all the crafts though embroidery has always been an important source of income for many families. But it wasn't just an income, it was a way to add the personal touch to traditional dress or tablecloths and even church vestments.

Nowadays, you can find all sorts of embroidered items from bookmarks, to drink mats, mobile phone holders and of course wonderful pieces to hang on the wall.

I am lucky though in that I live next door to a master craftswoman - an instructor of embroidery. Every time I pop in to see Carmen I can almost guarantee she'll be sat working away at her embroidery. From small items to a huge tablecloth, she never tires of it. 'I just love it!' she tells me.

So how much does it cost?
The embroidered roses above will cost around 30€ to 50€ - the frames are extra and normally you would go to a framing specialist who will stretch the cloth so there are no unsightly creases. But for a small item, you can buy nice pieces for just a few Euros.
The great thing is that they make an ideal present to take home from your holiday as they won't break, they don't take up any room and they are actually from La Palma. Beware of buying machine-made imitations though. Of course they are cheaper but they certainly aren't anything to do with the tradition of La Palma and it really is worth going for the real deal.

Also, they are machine washable. Just remember to iron on the reverse.
Carmen's embroidery shop isn't open any more as she's retired although she does make special pieces to order. But if you are in the area of Mazo, do pop in to the Casa Roja (Red House) museum and have a look at their intricate embroideries. It's right in the village centre and the opening hours are Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00/15:00-18:00 and Sat 11:00-18:00 and Sun 10:00-14:00.
You will also find embroidery to buy in some of the 'Artesenia' (Handicraft) shops or souvenir shops and when there is a local craft market too.

Fun on the finca

Yes, we've reached that time of year when it's a little quieter on La Palma with regard to tourism.
This often surprises people as they tend to think that the summer is peak season in the Canaries, but no, the busiest period on La Palma is the winter.  The reason is simple - in January, February and March when the rest of Europe can be particularly cold, people head to the Canaries for the winter sun.

January in Tazacorte

So it follows that some businesses can take a short break (or take stock at least!) and a few restaurants close for their annual holiday for a week or two sometime in May, June or July. And we did a little bit the same this year although never actually closing our doors. But it's certainly a good opportunity to take time out and make a visit to the UK (or other Canarian island). This time, our lovely casita guests were kind enough to look after the finca while we went to Fuerteventura. And what do we find ourselves doing - walking of course!

As it happens, in May and June it's also a turn around in nature. It's a time when the spring flowers finish and need trimming or tidying up and also it's all change with the vegetables on the finca. The winter crops have finished and we can harvest the potatoes, cabbage, leeks and onions. Did I mention onions? I think we went a bit overboard on the onions!!

And in their place, the sweetcorn, beans and tomatoes are sown and planted up. With any luck the outside of the house will get painted and the wooden decking and garden furniture will get a spruce up.
Holiday? Who said that!

Finca Franceses

Miradors of La Palma

A mirador is a look-out point, 'mirar' being the Spanish verb for to look. If you come on holiday to La Palma, you'll learn that word pretty quickly are there are plenty of miradors from where you can look at the wonderful scenery.
For example, in the north east of La Palma there is the Mirador La Tosca which has a view right the way across the north coast of La Palma, Franceses is right in the middle!

Mirador La Tosca

Another stunning one is the Mirador El Time which is is located just above Los Llanos where the GR131 trekking route crosses the road. The Restaurant El Time is located there so you can eat and drink with a view or alternatively just park in the nearby car park.

Mirador El Time

The Mirador La Montaña is at La Galga between Puntallana and Los Sauces - it's also great for observing the skies. If astronomy is not your major subject, there's a lot of help in the way of information boards!

Mirador La Montaña at La Galga

A little-known mirador on la Palma (mainly because there is no sign) is one which overlooks La Fajana de Garafia approximately 400 metres below. Stunning!

Mirador Franceses

But there are plenty of other miradors - I wouldn't like to hazard a guess how many there are really! So while you're on holiday on La Palma, keep a look out for the look outs and don't forget your camera.
And I'll probably be adding to this blog post so do pop back from time to time!

What is there to do on La Palma?

I remember one evening twelve years ago when I was at a friends house in Tenerife. I had found myself in conversation with another English lady about the neighbouring island of La Palma and the fact that it is often to referred to as La Isla Bonita. We agreed that it is indeed a beautiful island.

Santa Cruz de La Palma

‘Yes,’ she continued with perhaps more enthusiasm than was strictly necessary, ‘but you can’t live there!’

Most of my answer was apparently drowned out by the rising background noise but anyway, why couldn’t you live there I insisted on knowing.

‘There’s no hospital for a start!’ she replied in a shocked voice, although conceding that an airport was a possibility for the future.

Eventually, I managed to get her to understand that there is indeed a hospital and in fact there is an International airport already in existence and has been for many years. But I had a harder time convincing her that La Palma, yes sleepy La Palma, is my home.

So what else is there to know about La Palma?

How to get there

The first airport on La Palma opened in 1955 and in 1970 it moved to its current location in Mazo, by the east coast. In 2011 a new and larger airport was built and in that year it handled over 1 million passengers. From the UK there are direct flights from both Manchester and Gatwick with Thomsons. The airport code is SPC. There are also direct flights from Germany, Spain and the Netherlands plus inter-islands flights from Tenerife and Gran Canaria.

For ferries, the port of Santa Cruz de La Palma serves Fred Olsen, Acciona Trasmediterranea and Naviera Armas. There is a new marina at Santa Cruz and a second port/marina at Tazacorte in the west of La Palma.

Flight from Tenerife to La Palma

Accommodation

There are many casas rurales (the traditional Canarian cottages) dotted about the landscape which are available for rent along with apartments, hotels, pensions (room only) and even a few bed and breakfasts.

Shops

La Palma has many large supermarkets (Hiper Dino, San Martin, Trebol) and smaller Spar supermarkets all of which are open all day. There is also a covered fruit and vegetable market in both Santa Cruz and Los Llanos and weekend markets in Puntagorda, Mazo, Puntallana and Barlovento.

Puntagorda Market with Artesenia products

Beaches

Whilst La Palma does not have a great abundance of broad swathes of golden sands, it

does however have a good number of black sand beaches, hidden coves and sea water pools.

The main beaches are at the resorts of  Los Cancajos in the east and Puerto Naos and Tazacorte in the west although there are other sandy beaches dotted around the island. There is also a new beach under construction on the waterfront of the capital of Santa Cruz in addition to excellent beach at Bajamar, just off the road out of the capital to the south.

Beach at Tazacorte, La Palma

Transport

Cars can be hired either on-line in advance or whilst on the island at the airport or in the towns.  There is also an excellent bus service (even in the rural north of the island) and no single bus journey costs more than 2€.

Walking routes

La Palma has over 1000km of marked trails through ever-changing and spectacular scenery. The main long distance trails are the GR130 Camino Real (8 days) which goes around the perimeter of the island linking hidden hamlets, gorges, towns and beaches and the GR131 El Bastón (3/4 days) which includes the Volcano Route and the Roque de Muchachos at 2426m. Other walks pass through the Laurisilva forest of Los Tilos, pine forests, lava fields and country meadows.

What is there to do?

The fun on La Palma is generally provided by the beauty and nature of the island as there are no theme parks, bowling alleys, skating rinks or disco-pubs pock-marking the boulevards.  In no particular order, these are some of the great things to do and see:

Roque de Muchachos - the highest point of the island at 2426m

La Caldera - a near complete circular mountain ridge measuring 10km in diameter and 2000m deep

La Cumbrecita - a stunning viewpoint and walk along the ridge of the Caldera

Volcanoes – the last eruption was Teneguia in 1971

Los Tilos – ancient forest of Laurisilva, a species from the age of Dinosaurs

La Zarza forest and archaeological park with pre-Hispanic rock engravings

Salt Pans of Fuencaliente (area of Scientific Interest and whose waters attract migratory birds)

The rural north with its hidden hamlets, caves, fresh water springs and ancient dwellings with wooden roofs

Weekend markets with fresh organic produce and local handicrafts

Historic capital of Santa Cruz with its flower-festooned balconies, cobbled streets and splendid mansions.

Guided tour of the observatory at Roque de Muchachos to see how the stars are observed on La Palma

Various museums including the Naval museum, Silk museum, Banana museum and Archaeological museum

Dolphin and whale watching from the boats out of Tazacorte harbour

SCUBA diving, snorkelling, swimming and sunbathing

Paragliding - La Palma is often cited as the best place in Spain for Paragliding

In short, if you are bored while on holiday in La Palma, you are probably on the wrong Canarian Island!

We hope you enjoy La Palma too!  For any other information, you are welcome to look at our website www.holiday-lapalma.comhttp://www.holiday-lapalma.com/aboutlapalma.html