El Bernegal

Any business person will tell you that the key to a successful restaurant is location, location, location. In that case, El Bernegal in Santo Domingo has thrown away the rule book.

Located on a semi-industrial looking road leading out of sleepy Santo Domingo, a town divorced from the main road by many kilometres and already out on a limb in the north west corner of La Palma, El Bernegal sits cosily between the fire station and health centre.  It’s hardly a promising start.

But the first glimpse of the restaurant will give you hope, not just by the number of cars parked on the piece of rough ground opposite, but by the façade of the building which looks temptingly interesting.  And you’d be right for just inside the main door, you will already see the central courtyard eating area with its bright blue Moroccan wall tiles, enormous ferns hanging from the high ceiling above and three small restaurant rooms and bar leading off. 

Apart from the current lovely décor, it is easy to see that El Bernegal is a historic house of some note, beautifully restored to the highest standard.  The menu is not however set in the past because, whilst it might look relatively simple, the presented dish really is about as cosmopolitan and carefully crafted as you will find on the island. 

 Starters include such dishes as grilled goats’ cheese with traditional mojo sauce, avocado with shrimp, chef’s own fish pate and mushroom with garlic and range in price from 3.00 euros to 7.50 euros.

The salads which, no matter how theoretically simple, the chef manages to turn into  exciting and beautiful platters, include tropical salad, roman salad, salad niçoise and tagliatelle with pine kernel and goats’ cheese and range in price from 5 to 7 euros. 

There are three types of omelettes to choose from – including banana omelette - and soups including courgette soup and a wholesome and filling Canarian soup.

If you manage to reject the famous ‘Bamy’ (tagliatelle with vegetables and shrimp at 7.00 euros – I think I’ve had it three times now and it’s delicious) then maybe fish is your fancy.

You can choose from fried squid, fresh tuna, perch with caper sauce (another favourite of mine) and grouper priced between 6.50 and 9.50 euros.

For the meat eaters, this is probably the main event and dishes include tournedo chasseur or béarnaise, half chicken, peppered steak, fresh pork chops or pork loin with chestnut cream - and once you’ve tasted pork from La Palma, you’ll know how tasty and moist it is compared to factory reared pork.   Prices range between 6.00 and 13.00 euros.

And then of course the desserts – home made peach sorbet, nougat glacé, crepe with chocolate sauce … If you don’t have room for any more at this point, share a dessert with some else – anyone else - or run around the block until you do!  Prices are 3.00 to 3.75 euros.

 Every single dish is presented with an artistic eye to detail and, with such a tempting menu and delicious food at a price which is more than fair on the pocket, be warned – it’s popular.  In fact, it’s so popular that they don’t even open in the evening and at weekends, reservations are highly recommended. 

I suggest you arrive no later than 5pm and don’t forget to leave room for that dessert.

Living on La Palma - here's an offer!

Next year, it will be our tenth anniversary of moving to La Palma.  Ten years sounds like a long time but to us it only seems like ten minutes.  I suppose though I must admit to that warm, comfortably feeling of having nestled into our home in Franceses and La Palma in general to the point where our nearest neighbours feel like they really are family and I am a fervent supporter of all things La Palma (nearly).
We take it as a compliment when neighbours ask us to help prepare the pig for the bbq or crush the grapes by treading and when villagers ask us if I can help their teenage children work through the maze of English verbs or read to the children in the village school.  It's what makes us feel like we belong.
And then further afield on the island, when people mention to us that they would like to sell their house as in the case of an English friend and do we know of anyone who would like to buy - and then of course people who ask us if we know of a property to buy.  Naturally, we are happy to introduce the two parties and they can hopefully live happily ever after.
At the moment though we have an interesting situation where our English friend really does need to sell his property and we are happy to try and spread the word for him.  For many years he enjoyed his visits to La Palma but now, due to his age and ill-health, there are no more plans for him to come to the island.
The property that is being sold is in fact a small complex of four apartments set in a village location.

 Originally, it was an old two-storey village house and this has been extended to provide two more apartments with central courtyard.  The old house, now two apartments but could be converted back, has original features with tea wood ceiling and floorboards.  Two of the apartments are completely furnished (most of it as new) right down to cutlery in the drawers and the four apartments all have balconies plus fitted kitchens and bathrooms.

There are also two large storerooms under the apartments, several seating areas around the complex and off-street parking.  They offer numerous possibilities to either keep as four apartments, convert back to a house and granny annexe or apartment to rent out.
The asking price was 175,000 euros but our friend is now willing to accept just 146,000 euros - and that is for all four apartments.
If anyone is interested in this amazing offer we are happy to provide more details and show you the apartments, inside and out.  Meanwhile here are some photos.  Someone, somewhere is going to snap up a complete bargain and there's not too many of those about! 
Next up on the blog - La Palma's natural phenomena, the sea of clouds.

Reptile, anyone?

If you are coming on holiday to La Palma then one of the things that might interest you apart from taking in the culture, views and tranquility is reptile spotting.

 There are two main sorts on La Palma, those being the lagarto lizard and the gecko. Broadly speaking the lagartos are the ones that you will see during the day as they peak out from rocky walls or sprint across the road or path with the impressive speed of a clockwork toy or nibble at your banana when you're not looking. Geckos on the other hand are altogether more demure generally sticking (literally) to walls and ceilings and prefer evenings when tasty moths are about.

When you first start to spot the lagarto lizards you will quickly realise that there are two distinct groups of these - the larger, blue-cheeked variety with a head resembling a miniature dinasour -

 and the smaller brown lizard who dresses in stripes. Yes, you guessed it - blue for a boy and, well, brown, for a girl.

If you absolutely hate reptiles though or have a phobia about them, then don't worry because they really won't bother you or even eat you alive. Mostly. They only measure around 20cm in length which includes the tail, so not quite of the mammoth proportions of the Komodo dragon at around 3 metres. Now the Komodo's have been known to attack and devour a person. Raugh! Just fooling.
However, whilst the lagartos have many plus points from an interest point of view, such as their ability to jettison their tail in an emergency (cats like lagartos) the geckos win hands down for me.

 Not only are they gravity-defying with their amazing sticky little hands and a much calmer character than the lagartos but they have the kind of perpetual wide-eyed look of the innocent.  They seem to say 'Who?  Me?'  You've just gotta love them!

Charco Azul - Blue Lagoon

When it comes to a drop of the wet stuff our favourite haunt is located at La Fajana de Barlovento.  Yes, it's a great place for swimming and snorkelling!  However, by way of a change, we decided to go for a swim at Charco Azul, the Blue Lagoon as I call it, which is near the picturesque village of San Andres, below Los Sauces on the east coast of La Palma.
The Charco Azul has in fact only just recently re-opened after a rock fall and I am pleased to say that it has been restored back to its former beautiful self.

 

It's a great place for people of all ages as it has a large children's pool complete with a couple of seawater pools, sea water fountain, changing rooms and plenty of flat space for sunbathing.  So, if you are heading that way, don't forget to take your cossie and you can look forward to a dip in the blue.

And don't worry about how you are going to replace those used-up calories after all that swimming as there are also a couple of restaurants handy.  One overlooks the pools and the other, called Romecabezas (either meaning 'brain teaser' or 'headbreaker' I'll let you take your pick) is just around the corner.   Mmm, wonder if the 'headbreaker' reference is anything to do with the rockfall which did in fact submerge the other restaurant!  Either way, the cliff wall has now been impressively and securely netted.  Yet another feat of engineering for La Palma!
However, no matter how attractive Charco Azul is, I think our favourite will continue to be La Fajana de Barlovento.  It's not just the choice of pools, abundance of fish, fantastic underwater topography in the sea, but it's nearer to our finca.  And that means it's also nearer for guests staying at their rural accommodation to rent in Garafia!