Smuggler's Cove

A couple of weeks ago, whilst overlooking the spectacular Barranco Fagundo from the mirador/restaurant at El Tablado, we noticed that the beach at the mouth of the ravine was sand-covered and looking rather delicious.  Naturally, our curiosity was aroused as this is one beach we have never been to.  Yes, Smugglers' Cove as once frequented by pirates.  So, yesterday, after a one hour walk down the side of the ravine, we arrived at the rocky bottom and set off to explore down towards the sea.

We weren't quite sure how long it would take to arrive at the sea because the bed of the ravine was full of little curves and so it was not possible to see to the end until we were almost there.  However, after ten minutes of picking our way over the rocks, we reached sea level (almost) and were overlooking the little cove.  It was very easy to imagine how pirates could quickly hide themselves in here.

But there was just one problem - a ten metre vertical drop off between us and the beach.  Undaunted, some of the more adventurous in our group of two people were quickly finding a way to get further down.  By edging along a narrow, rough, sloping precipice in a crouching position whilst clinging on tightly with fingertips ....

... a rather random selection of long pieces of driftwood could be reached.  This, I was informed, was a ladder, by means of which we could reach the sea.  

Suffice to say, I was not impressed.  And further still, not one bit convinced that it was important we both had to meet the beach personally.  After all, we've got a perfectly good beach just a twelve minute drive from our house!  So that was decided - I had no intention of attempting this obstacle - I would safely stay at my lofty viewpoint and watch David swim. 

After a good deal of encouragement, persuasion and cajolement, I was down. But why, why is it, when the last thing you want to do is to fall of the edge, you can't help but look down!!  It was in fact easy enough, but if you dislike heights (like me) or have a tendency to trip over almost nothing (like me) or have an over-heightened sense of self-preservation (like me), I don't recommend it one bit.  And there are plenty of other beaches on La Palma of the variety that you just walk onto.

But at least it was a lovely beach - although if I ever go there again (which I doubt), I shall definitely take a tip from the pirates and keep a handy hook up my sleeve.

La Mata

La Mata is home to one of our great little local restaurants, a twenty-minute drive from the finca here in Franceses.  It lies just off the main road between Roque Faro and La Zarza.

When we first came here, it was a mouldy old building with an interesting green/blue mottling effect of damp creeping up the walls.  Nobody seemed to mind - or notice.  Then it closed for a while, re-opened under new management and eventually was transformed into what it is today - a jolly nice place!
One of its special attractions is the fact that meat is cooked over wood, just like it was in the old days.  If you have tried to bbq food using wood rather than charcoal, then you will realise that it is quite an art, especially in a restaurant where they don't know if and when orders will come in. But in fact, you will find that quite a few restaurants on La Palma cook in this traditional way, especially in the north, and this is still the way our farming neighbours cook their meals as routine.
The other thing about the restaurant at La Mata is that it also has a stunning view, although I have to admit that an amazing view surrounds you almost everywhere along this stretch of road.

From the outside, La Mata may not inspire you to delve inside in search of a good meal but appearances can be deceptive.  Walking through the narrow bar, past the usual selection of wine drinking, cigar smoking farmers, you will arrive at the small inner restaurant.  A door will take you through into the outer restaurant where, given some luck, you can dine in dappled sunlight.

For those that wish, there is also the garden outside where you can enjoy a drink or a meal.  And there are some nice touches here and there.

For those who would like to explore and take a small stroll past the restaurant of La Mata, you may spot something you didn't quite expect.  Surprises, I have come to learn, are the norm in La Palma so would it be a pig farm, or chickens maybe in this most simple and rural of areas.  No - ostriches! Well, why not, nobody said there weren't ostriches on La Palma!

Carrying on just a little from here, apart from a long low house which looks abandoned but isn't and a building project you will come to another slight surprise in the form of a road sign.  Now why on earth would there be an official looking sign on a dirt track?  Well, that's because this used to be the main road, the 'Carretera General.'

Sometimes we bring guests in the Land Rover along this section of  'road' just to demonstrate what it used to be like.  (Don't try this in a hire car, they are not insured for off-road driving).  Pre-1960's, there were no asphalt roads up here, just tracks and donkey paths so this makes us feel very grateful for the excellent, and improving, roads we now have.
But of course tracks like the old Carretera General are our favourites - providing there is not rush  ...