Revving up

On Saturday, whilst in Barlovento, we happened to stumble across a gathering hosted by the Association of Motorbike Riders, La Palma.  This was a slight surprise as generally you don't see many motorbikes on the island and certainly not in big gatherings.  However, judging by the bikes there, they had certainly managed to amass a good deal of support, not just from La Palma, but also from the other islands, notably Gran Canaria.  So ... given that David and I used to have motorbikes, we both had more than a passing interest in them.  

What first got the camera out was a bright orange Honda GoldWing with a flat six-cylinder engine of 1,832 cc.  I guess that would do most people - with a spare 25,000 euros.  Well, I suppose the computer controlled rear suspension, cruise control, slow speed reverse and airbag might cushion the blow.  But really - heated seats and handlebars!

The classic Triumph 900 was a little more reminiscent of our day when the heating source came from four extra jumpers and as many pairs of socks as you could get on.   But come to think of it, on La Palma, we are more used to seeing motorbike riders in T-shirt, shorts and flip flops than cold weather gear and leathers.

If the classics and superbikes created interest (in the form of lustful looks and  unseemly drooling) there was one bike, the 'SALVAJE' (meaning, wild) that hit upon a difference.  The reaction was all smiles.

But try as I might, I couldn't find a representation of my old bike there.  Ah yes, my trusty Suzuki A100 with a top speed of 60 mph ... think I'd rather have the Salvaje actually. 

Dancing Dwarves

At last – my first dwarf!!! I am thrilled. Yes, eight years on La Palma and still not a single dwarf spotted, except as a fridge magnet or cuddly toy ... up until last night.

You see, we are now in the 'semana grande,' the big week, of the huge fiesta where one of the many highlights is the dancing dwarves. Apparently, according to a friend, they live in the mountains except for this one night when they come down into town, disguised as bishops. And this only happens once every five years so you can imagine the excitement with thousands of people coming to see the spectacle not just from La Palma but from all over the Canary Islands. After their appearance on stage solemnly singing, they file into a castle-like tent and reappear ... as dancing dwarves.

I agree that it is one of the stranger happenings on La Palma but it is made all the more crazy by the dotty little dance, giant sized hats and face masks which hide their true identity (although you could probably guess that if you saw a dwarf in his civvies they would be of the special La Palma dancing variety.)  The dwarves perform six times during the evening, 7 pm, 8pm, 10pm, 11pm, 12pm and 1am and then, by way of a marathon encore, dance their way right along the length of the main street.

When we arrived at 7 pm, courtesy of one of the many coaches laid on from all points of the island, the queues to see the spectacle were enormous – and these people already had tickets which are a sell-out way in advance - they were just eager to get a 'good' seat. 

We were further amazed to see people already lining the main street where they had installed themselves either by sitting on the pavement reading a book, playing cards or chatting. Or better still, on little stools, cool box at the ready.  These people – incredibly - were waiting for the dwarves who would not appear on the street until some point after 1am.  A six hour wait is well beyond my comprehension but it is a reflection of the passion felt for the event.

So, being ticketless, we took up our place at one of the many vantage points and even being pretty far away, you still got the happy feeling that dancing dwarves give you.  

Of course, other than the dwarves, there was plenty else to see and do. Belly dancers were performing in the road. A fun fair in the car park. Shops open where you can buy, amongst other things, dwarf memorabilia. Impromptu guitar playing in bars. Eating, drinking and people watching from the pavement restaurants. An open-air nightclub overlooking the sea. And a band with huge stage for the middle of the night when the dwarves have disappeared back up to the mountains.

At 12.30 am we jumped into a coach to head for the hills ourselves. We were pretty much dwarf-ed out by then but not so other people who were waiting at the bus stop in Los Sauces at 1am for the bus that would take them down to the capital.  But for the next time – in five years – we are going to be there for the long haul. 

Gosh, I'm excited already.  

A quiet night away

On La Palma, it is very easy to give yourself a mini-break and book a night away in a completely contrasting place.
A quick look on one of the many websites will reveal some short notice bargains to be had. And since we had heard that the best group on La Palma – Manifold – were playing at Los Cancajos, we took little persuasion to head south, bags packed.

Not long after we had checked in to the aparthotel Costa Salinas, we were down at the sea for a spot of snorkeling across the bays of Los Cancajos. The water, particularly around the breakwaters, is azure blue and stunningly clear and there are always plenty of fish to be seen - dorada, parrot fish, trumpet fish, barracuda, etc – plus you can dive down for the empty urchin shells. If you go around the far side of the breakwater, it can be quite exhilarating as there is quite an impressive drop-off to the sea bed.


Although we could have utilized the very good self-catering facilities provided, one treat leads to another and so for dinner we headed along to Las Olas and enjoyed an excellent buffet there. At 10 euros per person it really is excellent value.



And we still had the group to go! If you ever get the chance to see Manifold, then you really shouldn't miss it. After two hours of rock and roll hits with a few ballads thrown in, all filled with energy and fun, we felt we had just been to some London extravaganza (and in a way we had since, in a multi-national line-up, two of the lads are east Londoners...) . Unfortunately, I don't have a single photo but you can look them up on here http://www.millseyspages.com/music_pages/manifold/manifold.html

The next day, was a good opportunity for us to go walking (write-up to follow next week on www.GR130-lapalma.blogspot.com) and, after a rather late start, headed off from Santa Cruz up past Puntagorda, eventually surfacing on the main road at El Granel. It was fifteen kilometres of almost every conceivable type of terrain including some mountain scrambling and cactus dodging. Although we didn't quite reach our goal, it was still a good feeling of achievement.

And this was all on the big day of the 'Little Week' when the throne of the Virgin Mary is carried down from the church of Las Nieves to the square in Santa Cruz with a mile long procession of Palmerans in traditional costume.

What amazes me is how you get such a large percentage of the population to dress up, from children to grandma and all points in between, 'youths' included. But of course it's the children that steal the show.


(Next week is the 'Big Week' when the dwarves who have been living in the mountains all year get a chance to come out and entertain by dancing the polka through the streets. You just never can tell with these dwarves.)

As it happened, we finished our walk a little before the procession was due to arrive – well, a couple of hours. We hung around for a bit – definitely looking out of place in shorts and with walking poles – and decided that maybe it was time to be responsible parents and head for the hills were the cat and chickens would appreciate a little attention.

Yep, La Palma can be so boring sometimes .... must be why I'm yawning.

It's all Yellow

Yesterday, we were at the top of La Palma taking a couple of guests up there who wanted to walk back down to the house.
As chance would have it there was a hive of activity - not quite watering the mountain as it appears in the photo, but watering the new plants that have been put in recently. It's all part of a programme to re-establish endemic plants up there.
If you have time to visit 'the top,' it's a wonderful time to go with the broom absolutely beautiful.