Home is Where the Hat is

While people are enjoying their well-earned holidays by the beach in Tazacorte or at the various rural houses around the island, for the most part things tend to keep us pretty busy at home on the finca (small-holding) here in Franceses. Not only is it home to us but also the location of the casa rural La Casita and the bed and breakfast accommodation. One of things we are less busy doing these days however is restoration works.
But of course it wasn't always like this and I remember when we first came to look at the house 'as if it were yesterday.' What would we find we wondered as we drove to the very north of the island, far from the capital of Santa Cruz. One thing we had been assured of was that we would be the only English speakers there in the sleepy hamlet of Las Tierras which sits at the edge of an only marginally less sleepy Franceses in Garafia (the second largest municipality with less inhabitants than even the smallest municipality).
Our recently acquired and still shaky grasp of Spanish was certainly going to be tested to the full. I could only hope that what we had learned from our scarily slim paperback, 'Learn Spanish in 6 Weeks,' with its worn pages and peeling spine from having been read and re-read at every available moment was going to be get us through.
And then of course, there was the little matter of location to consider.
We had always felt that the north was the most beautiful part of the island with its dramatic scenery of swooping green-clad ravines and mountain ridges, seemingly only held in place by the mighty Atlantic. But in an area where there are more goats than people, it was probably safe to assume that a property being sold by Palmeran farmers might be a bit of a project. Whether this was one step too far was another question.
The property, we were told, was down a track that only a 4 x 4 could negotiate and so we would have to walk down the adjacent donkey path to it. This was probably not a good start. However, we had already spent 5 whole months in the Canaries searching for the right place to live. La Palma had stolen our hearts above all the islands (hands down actually) and we had rented an apartment in Tazacorte for two of those months, but whilst we had really enjoyed staying in a beach-side location, it had always felt more of a holiday than a home. Being country lovers and having been brought up on a farm in Yorkshire myself, the call of the wild was, well, calling.
As it transpired the owners of the property had already started the restoration with the intention that they would live in it happily ever after. I have to confess it was probably a good thing that we didn't see it in its original dilapidated condition as the photo below was taken only after some considerable works.
The oldest part, the Casita, had already been part-restored and was exactly the sort of house we love - old and with many original features such as wooden floors, ceilings and window seats. And two foot thick walls of course. However, the other house had been left empty and untouched for years. Broken and missing glass in the windows allowed the elements to drift in at will and the whole house was wrapped up in a metal tube, these being water pipes that made it look like a present tied with galvanized string. Even though plenty of work had already been done, there was still plenty to be done, that's for sure.
Then there was the land, all 2 acres of it. The weeds were waist height and the suggestion to the owner that we might walk the land to see where the boundaries lie, which were of the 'over there' variety, surprised him to say the least. We could try it he said, with a look of disbelief that we might actually attempt to fight our way through a jungle over unknown and precipitous land. Well, that's foreigners for you, his face said. Apart from flat land at the front and side of the house, a lot of the land was west facing and cascading steeply downwards in a series of fig-tree filled terraces. Clearly, if we were not to slide off down into the ravine ourselves, then we had better confine any exploring until we were wearing a harness and rope. Or until we knew the land.
We were shown the view however. I won't even try to put it into words. Just to say that it takes in the whole of the north coast, the isolated and iconic hamlet of El Tablado to the west (from where you can actually hear a rare vehicle on the move or the tinkling of a goat bell despite it being a two-hour walk away), the other hamlets far, far away and up to the ridge of the mighty Caldera at over 2000m above sea level.
If there had been any doubt before, we knew this was the place for us and two weeks later, we moved in. After all, the old farmstead just required a few tweaks here and there. And it's amazing what a few years of tweaking can do.

Going to Market - Puntagorda Mercadillo

You know how it is when you go back to a place that you haven't visited for ages? It looks so much smaller and less interesting than how you remember it from last time. That's the theory anyway!
But maybe it doesn't quite work like that when you are an adult, well at least that what we found when we re-visited the weekend market at Puntagorda on the west side of La Palma.

It must be a good few years since we went to the market - enticed out of our lair in the north of La Palma by the suggestion of a picnic at nearby El Fayal, one of the several lovely recreation areas on La Palma set in a wooded area.

The picnic was great of course and a good chance to meet up with friends in a beautiful setting. At the moment, because it is so dry in the wooded area, BBQ's are not allowed but that's no excuse not to have a picnic.
The market just across the road looked quite busy with people coming and going - those going were laden with all manner of goodies - and once inside, we were pleasantly surprised at the number of stalls. Clearly in our absence, the market has become much more popular and with many more stalls.

I'm quite into handicrafts at the moment so made a bee-line for hand-made jewellery. If you like leather friendship bracelets, bags, purses and even sandals then you will indeed be spoilt for choice. But my eye was firmly on the bracelets and necklaces made from dragon tree seeds. In fact I recently bought a bracelet made from dragon trees while I was on a quick hop over to Fuerteventura and since we have many dragon trees on the finca which are in flower, it's been my ambition ever since to make one myself. My attempts at drying the seeds weren't at all successful so whilst I didn't buy any bracelets at the market, I was really pleased to see loose seeds on sale. So that's me occupied for the next few evenings!

Also on offer were other handicrafts - La Palma T-shirts, a stand with everything made in felt - hats, bags, baby shoes, waistcoats, all in sunny colours.

Ceramics too, lovely paper craft - bookmarks and pretty little cards - silvercraft and a stand with ornaments made from driftwood. There's a thought for the various bits of driftwood we find at the beach below us!

I was also hoping to buy some nice fresh veg and it's good to know that you can buy fresh produce on a weekend when most of the shops are closed. The fact that it is all grown locally certainly adds to the feel good factor and the choice and quality was excellent. Also rather interestingly, the produce is given to you in a brown paper bag, just like in the old days!

For those that want to get a head start in the vegetable garden, then this is where it all happens with lots of plants on offer - courgettes, lettuces, beans, tomatoes, cauliflower and peppers to name but a few.
Also other plants for the garden and house including aloe vera plants.

Apart from the fruit and veg stalls there are also lots of other edibles - local cheeses either smoked or semi-cured, great big fat cakes just begging to be eaten (quite a queue at that stand I can tell you!), black and green olives sat in half barrels and even meat on sale too. That will be exceptionally useful when BBQ's are allowed at the recreation area again.

Just one last thing to complete the purchases. Made on La Palma from a La Palma produce - wine. Cheers!

Chilling out at La Laguna de Barlovento

La Palma is known amongst those 'in the know' as one of the most mountainous islands in the world for its size. But what even those 'in the know' don't always know is that there are some really interesting flat areas too - and that really is worth knowing!
Yes it's true; there are flat areas on La Palma, not just for walking but also for recreation. And since La Palma takes its recreation very seriously, there are quite a few dotted about the island.
One of the flatest however lies a little way out of the town of Barlovento in the north east of La Palma. Slightly deceptively named 'La Laguna de Barlovento' and easy to spot on the map with what appears to be a large lake, the apparent lake is in fact a water reservoir formed from what was a crater. One of the largest in the Canaries with a capacity of 5.000.000 m³ of water, it is sadly non-operational at the moment due to a ruputure last year of mammoth proportions (in fact, more the size of a large bus than a mammoth).

However, don't despair entirely as there is water at La Laguna de Barlovento in the form of an attractive duck pond. With various breeds of ducks, very often along with their ducklings, there are also geese that wander about the area of the pond and spend what looks like a very happy time in the shady, marshy parts under trees. 

In fact, this large park has many hidden assets and a gentle stroll around will lead you through wooded paths to a few surprises. One of my favourites has got to be the bbq's - individual brick-built affairs complete with bbq, sink, table and benches. Firewood is supplied so best stop off at the Spar supermarket just down the road in Barlovento for a few burgers, buns and firelighters and you're all set. A bbq-roasted courgette topped with goat's cheese and La Palma mojo sauce is a great alternative too, not just for vegetarians :) so don't miss out on this outdoor treat. There is a charge of a few euros for the facility so do call in at the warden's office on the way through to let them know you are there and to pay your dues.
Apart from this being a particularly flat area, it is also quite high and often cool which can be another benefit for those who don't like full on heat. For this reason, it is a popular area at weekends for Palmerans who enjoy the open space and the sometimes cooler weather. The largest bbq buildings do get booked ahead but there are usually plenty of the smaller ones still available.

Another great experience at La Laguna is the camping and this might just be for fun, for those walking the GR130 La Palma Camino Real or for anyone wanting to keep the holiday costs low (or a mixture of all three of those things).  You'll either need to bring your own tent or you can hire one of the cabins. The cost is 4.50€ per week day per tent or 9€ per Saturday and Sundays. Be warned though, the end of July and right through August tend to be rather overtaken by large groups singing Ging, Gang, Gooley Spanish style with various Summer Camps. But other than that, you can enjoy the tranquillity of the area. For those camping, there are also free-to-use solar powered showers - the water is generally hot, hot, hot and great after a day of walking or exploring the area. Also, there is an excellent restaurant on site, Las Goteras which is great for a snack or full meal with meat cooked over a log fire.
Another little known facility of La Laguna is the adventure park. It was closed for a short time for maintenance but has re-opened again under the management of Ekalis, a company run by young Palmerans and is an alterntaive type of recreation for tourists and other visitors alike. It is open every weekend and during the week by appointment. To book, ring 922444517 or email ekalis@ekalis.com

For more news around La Palma and what's happening on the finca here in Franceses, you can subscribe to our monthly newsletter here: Newsletter

Cooling off in the north of La Palma

This year we have had the driest winter and spring that people can remember - great for those on holiday on La Palma, but not so great for the farmers or those with small-holdings and even just gardens. Along with the lack of rain, these past few months have been hot, hot, hot, or so it seems.
Luckily though, we are fortunate on La Palma to have natural fresh water springs that provide crystal clear water all year round and this is what we use on the land.  For the 'hot, hot, hot' element, we can also use a natural and plentiful water supply - the sea.

 Just below us here at the finca in Franceses lies the old port and beach of La Fajana de Garafia.  Once the most important port across the whole of the north coast, it is now mainly laid to banana plantations which are transported by a road which wends its way up to Franceses and then eventually to the main port of Santa Cruz de La Palma.
In the other bay to the port though is a secluded beach - usually a mixture of sandy and rocky stretches but at the moment, one glorious stretch of sand.  Even if it's not for an actual swim, it's still a good chance to cool off with the help of the mighty Atlantic.

Another favourite of ours are the sea pools at La Fajana de Barlovento which lie halfway between Barlovento and Los Sauces. They are a great place for a swim with three pools in addition to changing facilities and a couple of restaurants.  With lots of colourful fish in the water, they are also really interesting when snorkeling plus a very good place to swim for anybody who is a little less sure of themselves in the water. Here's our blog post about it, Keeping your Hat On.
Other sea pools nearby are at Charco Azul, by San Andres, Los Sauces. Again, great for anyone who is not so water-confident but also great fun for anyone to cool off and have a bit of a swim at the same time. Plus, there is a waterfall in one corner with water crashing into the pool - a bit of a power shower and head massage all at the same time!  This is the blog post we wrote last year about it - Charco Azul, the Blue Lagoon.

For those who love to get in the sea, there is also a bay just by Charco Azul.  The water can be turquoise and it is so tempting, it's difficult to resist!  It's fantastic for snorkeling with lots of fish and even a swim through - hold your breath and dive under a rock archway and pop up the other side.

However, there is a new beach on the block, so to speak, at Puerto Espindola near to San Andres.  It's an excellent sandy beach with an easy entry and exit and you can park the car just by the edge of the beach. There are no changing facilites but there is the excellent restaurant Meson del Mar for a post-swim freshen up and lunch.

Just recently with family staying and a complete day off, we had the great enjoyment of swimming in three different locations on the same day - La Fajana de Barlovento then Charco Azul and finally topped off with a swim at Puerto Espindola.  That's hard to beat for a lot of fun - and cooling off big style!